Hide & TrendTM
Global market intelligence from an American perspective
HIDE & TREND is a US-based weekly market intelligence report covering hide and leather prices, industry news and trends. The report is dedicated to optimizing trade in hide/leather by offering prices, other industry intel, news and – obviously – trends.
WEEK 45 US steer hides soften as Chinese buyers push back. BBS $22.50. Ports strike postponed again. China and Denmark, top contenders for modern maritime dominance. Screwworm cases jump to 113. US Midterms: Fashion gains, tariffs remain. America’s market is strong, but Luxury has a Gen Z problem. And all cobblers worth their bootblack went to Chicago and Stitchdown this weekend. Leave it to boutique bootmakers from around the world to spin the alluring yarn of American leather in their sales pitches. Perhaps there’s a story in there for the whole industry?
We continue to build report that’s easy to navigate and designed to grow alongside the industry we’re covering. HIDE & TREND reports news, stats, and intel dug up 1990s-journalism style without being in anybody’s pocket.
Thank you for your support. ~MB
THE SHAVINGS
MARKET FUNDAMENTALS
MARKET TAKEAWAYS and FORECAST
GLOBAL RAW HIDE & INTEL
OUR MAN IN MILAN
- Andrea Guolo EXCLUSIVE COLUMN
- The European challenge: Reclaiming the middle market
TRENDS
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- Brand Performances (Jimmy Choo, Revolve,Tapestry, MK, RL)
- Luxury has a Gen Z problem
- ThredUp resale growth continues
- US fashion spending holds firm despite consumer anxiety
- Shein under fire, but doubling down on Europe
Subscription Information
NEWS HEADLINES
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- LA/LB port strike threat extended through Friday
- Midterm shakeup leaves hide exporters waiting on tariff relief
- Lear Corporation profits rise despite weaker vehicle production
- US Midterms: Fashion gains, tariffs remain
- Stitchdown returns to Chicago
- Ecco closes factories, cuts 2,400 jobs
- Mercosur-Singapore trade pact fully takes effect
- Brazil’s agricultural, footwear exports rise
- Maersk shares tumble despite 27% revenue growth
- China is building its maritime dominance
- China’s market rescue fails to restore investor confidence
- US cattle herd rebuilding stalls as drought worsens
- Drought Monitor
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NEWS SUMMARY
The Democratic midterm sweep reshapes Washington, but US hide exporters are still waiting for tariff relief from China. A threatened strike at the Los Angeles/Long Beach port complex adds another layer of uncertainty to shipments bound for Asia. Meanwhile, China’s stock market has entered bear territory, raising fresh concerns about leather demand. Ecco is closing factories and cutting 2,400 jobs as footwear demand weakens, while Brazilian footwear (and agriculture) exports to Europe are gaining ground under the EU–Mercosur agreement. On the brighter side, U.S. beef export values continue to outperform volumes, supporting carcass returns despite slower slaughter.
THE SHAVINGS
News
LA/LB port strike threat postponed until Nov. 20
Contract negotiations involving approximately 250 security workers at the ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach have been extended another two weeks, delaying a potential strike. The three-day East and Gulf Coast port strike in 2024 rattled hide exporters but ended before serious disruption. This time, the nation’s busiest container gateway and a critical route for US hide exports to Asia is at stake. A shutdown could mean costly rerouting, congestion and delays. With fuel surcharges reportedly up more than 65%, exporters can ill afford another logistics headache. Operations continue while negotiations remain unresolved. Bloomberg/Insurance Journal.
Midterm shakeup leaves exporters waiting on tariff relief
The Democratic sweep of both chambers of Congress in the Nov. 3 midterms offers no immediate tariff relief, particularly on shipments to China. Greater congressional scrutiny of President Trump’s trade policies could improve prospects for agricultural exporters, but may also complicate negotiations. Trump retains broad executive authority over tariffs, making a major policy reversal unlikely.
China: Beijing may press for concessions ahead of the January expiration of the U.S.–China trade truce. Some pro-free-trade Republicans could join Democrats in challenging tariffs that have hurt agricultural and industrial exporters. But a Democratic Congress may also push for tougher restrictions on Chinese technology and supply chains. For U.S. hide sellers, promised tariff relief remains unresolved.
USMCA: Trade tensions with Mexico are unlikely to ease quickly. Mexico continues seeking relief from U.S. tariffs on steel, aluminum and automobiles, while Washington may demand stricter rules of origin and greater enforcement. With $873 billion in annual bilateral goods trade at stake, negotiators are pursuing interim agreements before year-end, leaving more difficult issues for 2027. The USMCA remains in force, but its July review failed to secure an extension, triggering annual reviews through 2036.
Agriculture: New congressional leadership could reshape priorities for the cattle sector, including herd rebuilding, animal health, slaughter capacity and export promotion. USDA trade programs and foreign market development funding will be worth watching. Greater scrutiny of tariffs that hurt American agricultural exporters could benefit the hide trade, although relief is far from guaranteed.
From a broader trade perspective, the election could weaken Washington’s negotiating leverage. Japan and South Korea may reconsider investment commitments of $550 billion and $350 billion, respectively, while India could slow progress toward a trade agreement. And for the hide and leather trade, the election changes the political landscape, not the tariffs. Congressional oversight may increase, and agricultural priorities may shift, but exporters still face uncertain access to China and unresolved North American trade negotiations. Reuters, South China Morning Post, Mexico Business News, Latin Times, Agri-Pulse.
Lear Corporation profits rise despite weaker vehicle production
Automotive seating and electronics supplier Lear reported third-quarter 2026 sales of $5.8 billion, up 2% YoY, while net income jumped 26% to $137 million. Growth came despite a 2% decline in global vehicle production, including a 5% drop in both North America (5%) and China (7%). Europe increased 1%. Lear’s Seating division recorded an adjusted margin of 6.3%, supported by new business and commercial recoveries. The company secured additional seating contracts in North America, India and China, with a new Michigan seat manufacturing facility scheduled to open in early 2027. The results suggest resilience in automotive seating demand despite weaker vehicle production, although Lear provided no specific figures for leather upholstery.
US Midterms: Fashion gains, tariffs remain
Democrats’ takeover of both chambers of Congress sent the Dow up 2.8% and brought cautious optimism to fashion. The blue raises hope for greater political stability and scrutiny of US tariff policy. Affordability remains consumers’ biggest concern, despite resilient luxury spending. The US continues to outperform other luxury markets, with Hermès reporting 8.8% growth in the Americas in Q3 and Zegna up 14%. High-income shoppers are driving much of it, but the markets, analysts argue need to trickle down and goods be affordable for the general consumer. For fashion and leather goods, the outlook remains cautiously positive, but tariffs, inflation and consumer purchasing power remain critical. Vogue Business.
Stitchdown is back in Chicago
Every cobbler worth his bootblack is in Chicago this weekend as Ben Robinson’s Stitchdown brings together boutique bootmakers, legendary American tanneries and leather enthusiasts from around the world. Horween, Wickett & Craig and Red Wing Shoe Co. are back, joined by exotic and invasive leathers, Japanese cordovan and Italian calfskin.
“We’ve always been lucky to have fantastic, world-class tanneries at Stitchdown Expo and our HIDE materials trade show,” Robinson said as he put the final touches on everything this week.
Starting Thursday, Boots will be bought, sold, repaired and inspected down to the last stitch.
“There’s something special about connecting directly with people who obsess over product details in the same way that we do,” said Jamie Kvamme of Red Wing Shoe Co. as she was heading down to Chicago from Minnesota. ”I’m always impressed with the interest and knowledge about the leather and construction, to the design, craftsmanship and performance of the product.”

Stitchdown draws a niche market? Absolutely. But one where the American leather heritage still commands a broad and devoted international following. Full report next week.
Ecco closes factories, cuts 2,400 jobs
Danish footwear and leather group Ecco will close manufacturing plants in Portugal and Vietnam, citing years of declining demand and production capacity 65% above sales requirements. More than 2,400 jobs will be affected, including 400 corporate positions. Production will be consolidated in Indonesia, Thailand and China. The Portugal closure is expected by Q1 2027, while Vietnam operations are winding down this month.
Mercosur-Singapore trade pact fully takes effect
The Mercosur-Singapore Free Trade Agreement took effect with Argentina Nov. 1, completing implementation across all four founding Mercosur members — Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay and Uruguay. The pact covers goods, services, investment, government procurement and digital trade. Mercosur will eliminate tariffs on about 96% of products over as long as 15 years, with roughly 25% of tariff lines becoming duty-free immediately. The agreement also introduces common rules of origin and streamlined customs procedures. Argentina’s agricultural strength is expected to support Singapore’s push to diversify food imports, while the agreement opens broader opportunities in energy, infrastructure, logistics, technology and services. SMCP, Yahoo, Reuters.
Brazil’s agricultural and footwear exports rise under Mercosur
The Mercosur Brazilian agricultural exports to the EU rose 14.8% YoY to $12.21 billion during the first five months of the provisional EU–Mercosur trade agreement (May-Sept. 2026). Export volume increased 8.1%. Meat exports surged 170% in volume, value up 103.5%. Brazilian footwear exports also gained to 2.8 million pairs, at a value of $29.6 million. Average EU tariffs on Brazilian footwear decreased from 10.7% to 9.3%. A further reduction to 8.2% scheduled for January 2027 under the agreement’s ten-year tariff phaseout. The reports do not break out beef from other meats or provide hide and leather export data, nor does it separate leather and synthetics in the footwear. But increased export and lowering tariffs mean strengthening trade tides between two continents other than North America. Datamar/Globo Rural/Abicalçados.
Maersk profits disappoint, but investment arm expands port interests
Maersk shares fell as much as 12% after Q3 earnings missed expectations, despite revenue rising 27% YoY to $18.1 billion. Spot freight rates jumped 46%, driven by Asian port congestion and Middle East disruptions, but shipping volumes slipped 1% and operating costs rose 18%, largely due to higher fuel expenses. Maersk nevertheless raised its full-year forecast for the third time. Meanwhile, sister company A.P. Moller Capital plans to acquire Singapore’s Portek International and a controlling stake in Belgium’s Euroports parent company, expanding its interests across more than 50 terminals in Europe and China, plus operations in Africa and Asia. The deals, pending regulatory approval, signal further consolidation of global port infrastructure. For exporters, growing consolidation of port infrastructure could improve shipping efficiency but it would also concentrate control over terminal access and handling costs. WSJ/Business Insider Africa.
China’s is building its maritime dominance
The United States of America was once a dominant maritime power. US still has the world’s most powerful navy, but China is building ships faster and expanding its reach overseas. Its fleet now exceeds 400 ships and submarines, against roughly 290 for the U.S. More significant is the gap in shipbuilding capacity. Chinese yards produced 52.6% of the world’s cargo-carrying tonnage in 2025, compared with just 0.01% for the US Beijing has also invested in commercial ports along major shipping routes from Asia to Europe, Africa and Latin America, many under its Belt and Road Initiative. These investments serve trade today but could also support naval operations. The US retains the advantage in naval tonnage and aircraft carriers, but rebuilding its shipbuilding industry will take time.

Against this backdrop, US exporters push back against Chinese ship fees. American manufacturers and trade groups are urging USTR to keep fees on Chinese-built vessels suspended through at least January 2027. They contend the charges would do little to restore American shipbuilding capacity while raising freight costs for US exporters, including hide suppliers shipping to Asia. WSJ, Shipping Telegraph, Maritime News, SCMP, Nikkei.
China’s market rescue fails to restore investor confidence
Chinese stocks have entered bear-market territory, with the blue-chip index down more than 20% from its June peak despite $15 billion in government liquidity support. Leveraged holdings hit a one-year low, new stock-account openings fell more than 30% in October, and corporate profits dropped 13% YoY in Q3. Morgan Stanley warns of another 10%–15% decline. Transparency is another concern: research found Chinese companies routinely omit sensitive information from English-language financial reports. Meanwhile, economists estimate actual economic growth at just 0%–3%, against Beijing’s official 4.5%. For U.S. hide exporters, weak Chinese domestic demand remains the bigger concern. Government intervention may stabilize financial markets, but it cannot manufacture demand for leather. SCMP/WSJ.
US cattle herd rebuilding stalls as drought worsens
US beef cow liquidation appears to have bottomed out, but herd rebuilding remains elusive. Cow culling is down from 13.19% in 2022 to a projected record low of 7.35% in 2026. Heifer retention remains insufficient to expand the herd. At least 200,000 replacement heifers may be needed to simply maintain current numbers as the cow herd ages. Heifer slaughter fell +11% thru September, suggesting some retention, but worsening drought complicates expansion. By November, 96% of Arkansas beef cows and 77% of Mississippi cows were in drought/severe drought. Poor forage conditions mean earlier hay feeding and higher costs. Economists see little prospect of meaningful herd growth in 2027. For the hide trade, a prolonged period of tight US cattle and hide supplies remains likely. Drovers.‘

Market Fundamentals
US PRICES (Select Categories)
| Category | Weight (lbs) | This Week | Last Week | October Ending | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Heavy Texas Steers | HTS | 60/64 | $21.50 | $21.00-$22.00 | $21.00-$22.00 |
| Heavy Texas Steers (J) | HTX | 74/up | $25.00 | $25.00 | $25.00 |
| Butt Branded Steers | BBS | 62/66 | $22.50-$23.00 | $23.50 | $23.50 |
| Butt Branded Steers (J) | BBX | 74/up | $26.50 | $28.50 | $28.50 |
| Branded Steers | BRS | 62/66 | $18.50 | $18.50-$19.00 | $18.50-$19.00 |
| Dairy Steers | DS | 62/66 | $35.50 | $35.50 | $35.50 |
| Colorado Branded Steers | CBS | 60/62 | $18.00-$18.50 | $18.00-$18.50 | $18.00-$18.50 |
| Heavy Native Steers | HNS | 62/66 | $29.50 | $29.00 | $29.00 |
| Heavy Native Steers (J) | HNX | 74/up | $35.00 | $35.00 | $35.00 |
| Native Heifers | NHfr | 48/up | $19.50 | $19.50 | $19.50 |
| Branded Heifers | BHfr | 48/up | $14.00-$15.00 | $14.00-$15.00 | $14.00-$15.00 |
| Heavy Native Cow | HNC | 48/52 | $15.00 | $16.50 | $16.50 |
| Native Fed Cow | NFC | 60/64 | $20.00 | $20.00 | $20.00 |
| Native Conventional Cow | NCC | 68/up | $14.00 | $14.00 | $14.00 |
| Branded Cows | BC | 48/up | $11.50 | $11.50 | $11.50 |
| Branded Fed Cows | BFC | 60/64 | $15.50 | $15.50 | $15.50 |
| Branded Conventional Cow | BCC | 68/up | $12.00 | $12.00 | $12.00 |
| Dairy Cows | DC | 48/52 | $18.00 | $18.00 | $18.00 |
| Native Bulls | NB | 90/up | $20.00 | $20.00 | $20.00 |
| Branded Bulls | BB | 90/up | $16.00 | $16.00 | $16.00 |
| Native Small Packer Steers | NSPS | 58/up | $12.50 | $12.50 | $12.50 |
- New prices highlighted in grey, white background unchanged
| Destination | Whole Cattle Hides | Wet Blue | Total Acc. (2026) |
|---|---|---|---|
| China | 7,914.30 | 829.40 | 8,743.70 |
| Vietnam | 23.70 | 2,010.10 | 2,033.80 |
| Mexico | 1,712.50 | 34.80 | 1,747.30 |
| Italy | 154.40 | 1,437.80 | 1,592.30 |
| Thailand | 724.00 | 589.70 | 1,313.70 |
| South Korea | 1,048.20 | 23.30 | 1,071.50 |
| Brazil | 523.80 | 240.10 | 764.00 |
| Hong Kong | 0.00 | 408.10 | 408.10 |
| Taiwan | 64.20 | 84.70 | 148.90 |
| Indonesia | 40.80 | 37.20 | 78.00 |
Combined US Export Activity: Year-to-Date 2026 (Units of 1,000)
| Category | Net Sales (YTD) | Exports / Shipments (YTD) | Outstanding Sales | Next year outstanding sale | Next year net sale |
| Whole Cattle Hides | 12,037.24 | 12,382.55 | 2,505.93 | 0.00 | 0.00 |
| Wet Blue Hides | 158,179.00 | 5,861.22 | 1,306.15 | 1,361.74 | 604,980.00 |
| Combined Hide Total | 170,216.24 | 18,243.77 | 3,812.08 | 1,361.74 | 604,980.00 |
US Export Activity: Cattle Hides – Splits (Units of 1,000)
| Category | Current Week | Total Accumulated (YTD) |
|---|---|---|
| Net Sales | 0 | 2,505,446 |
| Exports (Shipments) | 0 | 1,849,838 |
| Outstanding Sales | 613,200 | 613,200 |
Market Takeaways & Forecast
Takeaways: US steer hides soften as Chinese buyers push back
A number of sources said the market has become noticeably more difficult, with steer hides facing downward pressure after recent price gains. Just a couple of weeks ago, BBS, reported at $24.50 (likely limited sales to destinations other than China) Now they are called in at $22.50, with rumors of transactions a dollar or two lower even. Several buyers (and traders) have protested over the last few weeks, suggesting that the prices were not representative of the bulk of business. Someone said that China never really participated in the 2-3 dollar up in the steer hides, and sources across the trade agreed. Some said the packers had pushed too hard, and now Chinese buyers are pressing for reductions, particularly on butts, the largest-volume and most price-sensitive category. China participated in the earlier rally for certain steer selections, including HTS, but was less active in the rise for HNS. Natives are also facing some pressure, while cows appear steadier. Sellers remain reluctant to concede, although some lower-priced business has already cooled the market.
Renewed hope with the midterms sweep may show itself in demand. Fashion business analysts speculated this week that new confidence will return as world politics mellows out and tariffs feel more stable. And that’s certainly needed. Andrea writes this week about regaining the middle market, and maybe that’s done by a little peace and quiet.
Elevated diesel costs and, even if postponed, the possibility of disruption at the LA/LB ports add another layer of uncertainty, with rerouting potentially increasing freight costs and delaying shipments.
On topic, the maritime power struggle is real. China now builds more than half the world’s cargo-carrying tonnage, while US output barely registers. Beijing continues investing in overseas ports, and Maersk’s investment arm is expanding its own global terminal interests. Meanwhile, Maersk’s shipping volumes slipped even as freight rates surged 46% and operating costs rose 18%. For American exporters, the concern is growing concentration of control over shipping routes, terminals and costs. Hardly the time to introduce new fees on Chinese-built vessels, as American exporters are reminding Washington.
~ MB
Forecast:
The US hide market looks set for another quiet week, with further price pressure on butt-branded steers and possibly natives. BBS at $22.50–$23.00 could face another test. Heavy Texas steers and side brands appear steadier. Cows remain mixed. Tight cattle supplies should prevent a broad price retreat, but limited leather demand offers little reason for renewed firmness. China’s weak economy and unresolved tariff relief remain the biggest obstacles. Freight rates are easing, although logistics costs and port uncertainty continue to weigh on exporters. Expect selective buying, tougher negotiations and a market that remains supply-supported but increasingly vulnerable to softer bids.
Our Man in Milan
The European challenge: Reclaiming the middle market
In Europe, production volumes continue to decline and prices keep rising. For decades, this has been considered an irreversible trend. But perhaps it isn’t. A close friend in the fashion industry recently joined a trade mission to Brazil. He returned convinced that the vast and complex Brazilian market offers significant opportunities for “Made in Italy” products. Despite a substantial 40% base tariff—which is expected to remain even after an EU–Mercosur agreement—Italian apparel and accessories are still more affordable than comparable products made in Brazil.
His observation came to mind while listening to Luca Solca, Managing Director of Luxury Goods at Bernstein and one of the industry’s most respected financial analysts, speaking at a forum in Venice.
Solca believes the market must prepare for a new phase of polarization in consumption. The middle class is coming under increasing pressure, but brands able to reposition their offerings will find new opportunities for growth.
The central issue is the relationship between prices and purchasing power. “The great misconception is believing that luxury is intended solely for the wealthy, when in fact 90% of the market is driven by ‘aspirational’ middle-class consumers, who spend roughly $1,500 a year.”
Rising prices have alienated these consumers, shifting demand away from leather goods toward jewelry. After all, if a handbag costs more than $5,800, a consumer may prefer a piece of jewelry, which offers greater longevity. It is no coincidence that Richemont brands have recorded growth rates of 15% to 25% in recent quarters. Chanel, too, appears to have understood the problem, refocusing on handbags priced at $5,800–$7,000 rather than $11,600.
The real opportunity lies between luxury and fast fashion. “We recommend investing in companies capable of capturing the ‘trading down’ trend,” Solca explained. “Think of jackets offering better quality than Zara, but priced below $500–$600.”
Internationally, the outlook remains clouded by financial risks, uncertainty in the US and the pace of China’s recovery. Chinese consumer confidence is still weak, although early signs of improvement are emerging in real estate and consumer demand. Following a disappointing summer, Golden Week sales exceeded expectations. “A return to normalcy will likely take a couple of years,” Solca said.
As for the Middle East, Solca remains optimistic. Regional demand is holding steady. He suggests that some fashion brands have used Dubai’s tourism difficulties as a “fig leaf” to conceal deeper structural weaknesses they have yet to address.
Andrea Guolo also produces content for Milano Finanza, Vogue Italia, and other international publications. He’s worked at Unic (16yrs) and was the author of Hidenet’s European Report (10yrs). He has published an independent report on the European leather market since Sept. Please contact info@hideandtrend.com for a free trial of his report.
GLOBAL RAW HIDE & INTEL
Prices
UNITED KINGDOM OX/HRFS (£/KG)
| Weight | This Week | Last Week |
|---|---|---|
| 46.00 and up | 0.65 | 0.65 |
| 36.00 and up | 0.65 | 0.65 |
GERMAN COWS and BULLS (€/kg)
| Weight | This Week | Last Week |
|---|---|---|
| N. German Cow 25kg+ | 0.50-0.51 | 0.50-0.51 |
| N. German Bull 40kg+ | 0.83-0.85 | 0.83-0.85 |
| S. German Bull 50kg+ | 1.30-1.35 | 1.30-1.35 |
LATIN AMERICA
| Selection | This Week | Last Week |
|---|---|---|
| Brazilian TR1 | 0.57-0.58 | 0.52-0.58 |
| Brazilian TR2 | 0.47-0.48 | 0.46-0.55 |
| Brazilian TR3 | 0.40 | 0.40 |
INDIAN BUFFALO CRUST ($/SF)
| Category | This Week | Last Week |
|---|---|---|
| 1.4-1.6 mm | 0.42-0.45 | 0.42-0.45 |
| 0.9-1.1 mm | 0.38 | 0.38 |
Argentina
| Steer hides | This Week | Last Week |
|---|---|---|
| Heavy | US$ 0.25–0.27/kg | US$ 0.25–0.27/kg |
| Light | US$ 0.20–0.23/kg | US$ 0.20–0.23/kg |
| Cow hides | US$ 0.07–0.08/kg | US$ 0.07–0.08/kg |
| State | % Export* | Price / Min | Price / Max | AVG Price – Fresh Hides – R$/kg |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| RS | 34,3% | 1,15 | 1,30 | 1,23 |
| SP | 16,6% | 0,95 | 1,30 | 1,13 |
| MS | 11,9% | 0,90 | 1,10 | 1,00 |
| MT | 1,2% | 0,85 | 1,00 | 0,93 |
| GO | 14,5% | 0,85 | 1,00 | 0,93 |
| PR | 21.1% | 0,70 | 0,90 | 0,80 |
| PA | 0,5% | 0,85 | 1,00 | 0,93 |
| Total | 100,0% | R$ 1,04 |
*Freight included
EXOTICS
The legitimate global exotic leather market is highly regulated, premium niche valued at approximately $928.74 million in 2025, projected to double by 2034.
INVASIVE


AMERICAN ALLIGATOR

*Pricing data compiled in collaboration with Inversa and other sourcing authorities.
TREND
Brand Performance
Capri Q2 sales fell 5.5% to $809M; Michael Kors down 8.6%, and Jimmy Choo rose 11.5%
Hugo Boss reports a 4% decline in sales in Q3. Demand? Europe down, Americas flat, China soft.
Q3 sales up 20% for Revolve including luxury platform FRW, but profits down 27%
Tapestry lifts annual forecasts as Coach revenue rises 16% but Kate Spade sales fall 10% in Q1
RL defies luxury downturn – full-year guidance raised. Q2 revenue up 9%, beating estimates
Luxury has a Gen Z problem
Europe’s luxury sector is having a rough year on the stock market, and Julia Forsberg Tåhlin, analyst at Dagens Industri, Sweden’s leading business daily, says a lasting loss of appeal among younger consumers is a central reason. LVMH and Hermès, both down about 35 percent year to date, have fallen more than 40% in early October. Tåhlin says the slide cannot be put down to a weak economy alone. The industry has failed to win over the younger generation, she says, and its storytelling – which luxury brands depend on – has lost its pull.
Negative press, like reports of poor working conditions and investigations into other mistreatments have added to the damage. Over the past few years, Italian prosecutors and labor authorities have placed several major luxury fashion brands under judicial administration or targeted them in investigations over labor exploitation, sweatshop-like conditions, and illegal subcontracting in their supply chains, for example. Luxury is even beginning to feel stigmatized in some younger groups. Add to it that China, long a key market, remains weak.
Tåhlin does not expect a turnaround soon and sees the youth problem as the deeper, structural one. Her advice to the brands is to look to new growth markets such as India, change how they speak to younger buyers, and return to a focus on quality and good production conditions. Brunello Cucinelli, which has emphasized production values, is cited as a brand still posting better sales despite its falling share price.
Amongst all the red ink with the luxury brands, there is a small glimmer of green. Ralph Lauren. Coach. Up about 16.5% RL is one of few exceptions. Closing its Q1 at 16% revenue growth, Coach is another. It’s parent company, Tapestry, says about 35% of the 11 million new customers it gained in its last fiscal year were Gen Z. Coach have wooed them by shifting its strategy from flashy, logo-heavy branding to storytelling, personal expression, and accessibility. The strategies of these brands appear to be working. In late October, Ralph Lauren marked 50 years in Japan with PoloFest, a three-day event in Tokyo with an archive exhibition, a collector-led vintage market and talks. Carefully curated events that backs the type of brand storytelling, Tåhlin is talking about. This week, it reported second-quarter revenue up 9%, with growth in every region led by Asia, and raised its full-year outlook.
There are, of course, other forces at play. Vintage shopping is booming among younger consumers. They may love a luxury brand enough to buy its jacket secondhand, but that sale won’t appear in the company’s quarterly report. Still, the affection is there. Ralph Lauren understands how to turn that affection into something lasting. Its archives, American heritage and carefully cultivated storytelling give younger consumers a reason to connect with the brand, whether they buy vintage or new. The lesson for luxury? A brand’s history has value only if the next generation wants to be part of its future.

ThredUp resale growth continues
US secondhand fashion platform ThredUp reported third-quarter revenue up 7% YoY to $88.2 million, with active buyers rising 16% to 1.82 million and orders up 17%. Net losses widened to $5.5 million from $4.2 million. The company forecasts 9% full-year revenue growth, while its holiday survey found 62% of Americans plan to buy secondhand gifts this season. FashionNetwork.
US fashion spending holds firm despite consumer anxiety
American consumers remain pessimistic about inflation and the economy, but spending on fashion and luxury continues. The Americas led third-quarter growth at Zegna (+14%) and Hermès (+8.8%), while North America was Kering’s only growth region (+1%). The National Retail Federation forecasts holiday retail sales rising 4.2% YoY to a record $1.013 trillion. Clothing and shoes top planned Black Friday purchases across generations, with 85% of consumers planning to shop year-end sales. Clothing and accessories also feature prominently on Gen Z (51%) and Millennial (50%) wish lists. Shoppers are increasingly selective. Some 91% research fashion purchases before buying, 64% plan to wait for Thanksgiving deals, and 51% prioritize quality. Online shopping is expected to account for 53% of holiday shoppers, the lowest share since 2015. Luxury brands continue to look to the US as a principal growth market heading into 2027. Demand is there, but price, quality and perceived value determines who gets the sale. Vogue Business, NRF.
Shein under fire, but doubling down on Europe
The fast-fashion retailer agreed to pay $100 million to settle a US investigation into delivery delays and customer complaints. Its shares have fallen 22% since September, while app downloads across 10 markets dropped 42% YoY. EU parcel fees, a $168 million French privacy fine and further European scrutiny are adding pressure to its low-cost business model. But rather than retreating, Shein is restructuring its European supply chain to protect its low-cost model. Shein is investing another $575 million in its Polish distribution hub. They aim to cut delivery times to 48 hours and sidestep new EU parcel fees that have contributed to a 30–40% drop in small-parcel imports. Reuters/FashionNetwork.
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Thanks for reading,
Majsan Boström
Executive Editor
